Uzbekistan: Jewelers
![]() The Jewelers Art of Uzbekistan |
The Jewelers Art of Uzbekistan
Jewelry making is an ancient art in Uzbekistan; in fact, it is actually one of the most ancient established art forms in Uzbekistan. Among items excavated in Uzbekistan are bronze bracelets with intricate inlaid patterns, and silver rings and necklaces, all dating back to at least the twelfth century B.C. However, it is believed that jewelry was being made earlier than the twelfth century, usually in the royal courts. The jewelry at that time was made for the family of the Ruler and for noble ladies of the court. Silver was the preferred metal, but eventually gold became more and more popular in Uzbekistan. Highly artistic, the pieces were decorated with all manner of gemstones, including rubies, emeralds, sapphires, garnet, turquoise, coral and pearls. Very often even the clothing of girls and young women would be covered in designs made of gemstones and sewed with gold thread. The buttons were also often made of silver and gold. Even the horses of the nobility had harnesses heavily decorated in silver and gold and encrusted with gemstones. The women wore jewelry on their arms, wrists, forehead, neck, head, and fingers, particularly for festive occasions. Jewelry of antiquity was not designed strictly for purposes of adornment; it was common belief in Uzbekistan in the earliest centuries that certain jewelry possessed magical properties which would provide the wearer with protection from harm. For example, it was popular belief that silver would negate the lethal effect of poisons. Another belief popular in Uzbekistan was that the wearing of silver would preserve purity. Last, but not least, it was a commonly-held belief that that the wearing of silver would ward off evil spirits.
By the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the jeweler's art reached its golden age. Jewelry of Uzbekistan zargars, or masters, is distinctive and appreciated all over the world for its gracefulness of line and elaborate detailing. In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Uzbekistan jewelry was in great demand in both the East and West. By this time it was not only worn by women. Uzbekistan men began to wear heavy rings with one large gemstone, buckles made of silver and gold, skull caps decorated with jewelry, and waist sashes detailed with gemstones. Unfortunately, the high demand combined with changing times created, for a short period, a cheapening of the craft. Jewelry began being made with less precision and with less heavy metal. However, in Uzbekistan the art of jewelry making is passed on from generation to generation, from father to son. Therefore in the end the skill and creativity of Uzbekistan jeweler's masters prevailed. According to tradition, the jewelry should follow the lines of the clothing in terms of decoration and purpose. Today the jewelry is made with an eye toward more modern attire; yet the Uzbekistan masters are to be applauded for managing to keep the art true to its ancient traditions. This beautiful jewelry, with its skillful use of bright jewels and rare metal, and with its varied form and distinctive grace, is appreciated all over the world today. In all likelihood the jewelry of Uzbekistan will remain popular forever.


